It was difficult to determine the early season hiking conditions this year on the Haute Route. The COVID lockdown closed ski resorts, stopping their regular snow reports and prevented the local authorities from producing their avalanche bulletins which monitor snow line and depth at different elevations. The lack of reporting gave the impression that there would be very little snow for early season hikers to worry about, however, it’s turned out not to be the case with snow once again causing detours on the Haute Route until early July.
We’ve been out on the trail to check out the conditions and confirm/identify any detours and closures in the last couple of weeks. The first Haute Route Hiking customers have already finished the trail and we’ve been sharing updates with each other along the way. The willingness of others to pass on information to help others that follow is an inspiring part of the hiking community.
In general, there is still lots of snow in the Grand Desert and some snow on the eastward facing (Zermatt) side of the highest passes and sections of trail. Hiking poles are recommended for everybody as they will provide more stability across snowy sections. For those that are planning to take Col de la Chaux (rather than Col Termin/Sentier trail), or are inexperienced/nervous about crossing snow, you should also take microspikes. These provide more stable footing across steeper snow sections, or icy patches which you may find first thing in the morning at high elevations.
The warm weather is rapidly changing the situation so this advice only stands for the next couple of weeks until the whole trail has been trampled down to rock and dirt.
Walker’s Haute Route Trail Conditions
Identifying where snow is still covering the trail is a key focus of the first update. The general guidance at the moment is that some snow is still present (but rapidly receding) above 2,800m (9,200 feet) on the east (Zermatt) side of mountain passes. There are always exceptions in sheltered/shaded areas where a build up of snow has occurred (like in the Grand Desert). I’ll cover off below the conditions at each of the mountain passes and notable sections highlighting those that still have challenging snow sections
Mountain Passes and Notable Sections on Walker’s Haute Route
(Order direction Chamonix to Zermatt)
Col de Balme and Col de la Forclaz: No snow over the trail.
Alp Bovine: No snow over trail
Fentre d’Arpette: There is no snow on the Chamonix side or at the top on the Zermatt side. However, there is still one snow patch a few hundred metres below the top on the Zermatt side which is covering the boulders. Risk of post holing so tread carefully
Col de la Chaux: Snow on steep section of trail for the last few hundred metres on the way up from Cabane du Mont Fort which is icy in the morning - poles and microspikes recommended for this. Lots of on the way down toward Col de Louvie.
Col Termin: A small patch on the Chamonix side and a couple of patches on moderate slopes on the Zermatt side as you make your way to Col de Louvie. A path is being trampled though so was easy to cross
Col de Louvie: Snow is covering boulders and moderate sloping trail on the Chamonix side. Snow is covering a moderate sloping section of trail on the Zermatt side when you descend into the Grand Desert
Grand Desert: Lots of snow patches across the rocky trail. A steep section about 2/3 of the way to Col de Prafleuri
Col de Prafleuri: Some snow on the way up to the pass but nothing on the way down.
Col Des Roux: No snow over the trail
Cheilon Glacier: A small covering of snow over some parts of the glacier. The mobile markers are not out as of the 12th July. The staff at Cabane Des Dix can direct you if the markers haven’t been put out when you plan to cross.
Pas de Chevres/Col de Reidmatten: No snow over the trail. You can read more about challenges and options with crossing this pass in my 2019 August trail update here
Col Tsate/Col Torrent: Snow is covering the first part of the moderate sloping trail on the Zermatt side
Cabane de Moiry: Snow is covering a steep section trail on the way to the Cabane but the staff have fixed a rope to assist your passage
Col de Soreibos: Any remaining snow can hiked around
Forcletta/Medipass: Snow is covering the first part of moderate sloping trail on the Zermatt side
Augstbordpass: Snow patches covering flat and moderate sloping trail on the Zermatt side
Europaweg: No snow but as thrilling as ever! See below for details on the detour
Walker’s Haute Route Trail Updates
COVID-19 has caused the biggest impact to a Haute Route hikers experience on the trail this year but there are a few other detours and closures to be aware too;
DEtours FOR THE 2020 SEASON
Between Chamonix and Argentiere: Take a revised route around the golf course in Les Praz which has shut what was previously a public trail section. You’re barely out of the blocks and already you need to do a little detour
In the Grand Desert: You’ve got an option to either go left or right around the lake. I have an orange marker in my map explaining this. I like to go left which has the challenge of tip toeing across the stone bridge without falling in. When there is still a lot of snow (like now), the water can be over this bridge so going on the right side is better. Distance is similar.
Between Sorebois and Zinal: You’ve got a double whammy this year…Cable car isn’t running so you can’t avoid the big descent and the trail is closed while they do the work so you need to hike an extra 3km+ (2mi) as part of the detour in place…at least it means the descent won’t be as steep :) If this day was already too much for you, either catch a bus from Barrage de Moiry to Zinal (timetable and price in your mobile map) or, if you don’t want to skip any of the 11 mountain passes, catch the cable car from Sorebois to Grimentz and then bus to Zinal.
Between Chalte Berg and Gruben: They are currently clearing some trees above Gruben and have closed the trail while they complete the work. The detour stays on the track and adds 1km (0.6mi) of hiking
Between Grat and Galenburg: The municipality of Grächen has announced that the section "Grächen-Grat-Galenburg-Europahütte" of the Europaweg has been closed permanently. The risk of falling rocks was too high and is no longer justifiable for the responsible communities. This section of trail was destroyed in a rockfall at the end of the 2018 summer. The detour that was put in place for last season is the new Europaweg trail for the section between Grachen and Galenburg. See more details here
Between Gasenried and Herbriggen: The detour route has had a small revision to last year with clear direction to take a lower path that runs about 50m below the original route and joining back up within a few hundred metres.
When leaving Herbriggen: There is some new construction being done in the area. They have put signs up for a small alternative section before rejoining the trail. I found it easy to follow.
Just after the Charles Kuonen Suspension Bridge: The original route is overgrown and not maintained so take the revised route to rejoin the Europaweg trail.
Just after Taschalp: Make use of a new bridge that has been installed to continue on the Europaweg trail and trim off a few hiking minutes
CLOSURES FOR THE 2020 SEASON
Chalet Pierre Semard: Has announced they will be closed for the summer season 2020. This is a popular camping spot. La Borne in Tre-la-Champ is the best nearby alternative option
Refuge les Grands: Is closed for the season due to being unable satisfy the COVID-19 requirements. They will be serving drinks on the patio but no overnight stays are possible. The Alternative accommodation options are Col de la Balme Refuge or Hotel Col de la Forclez
Europaweghütte: Not offering any accommodation in 2020 while they undergo renovations, however, the restaurant is still open.
Zinal/Sorebois cable car: Closed for the summer while they are replacing it in time for the ski season
New COVID Rules for 2020 Season
Secure bookings ahead of time: Huts have reduced capacity by as much as 50% in shared sleeping spaces to ensure physical distancing measures can be maintained. The alpine clubs in Switzerland, Italy and France have all made it a requirement for hikers to have a booking
Sleeping bag for Cabane du Mont Fort: They require you to bring your own sleeping bags, as blankets for warmth are not being provided. The rest of the mountain huts only require you to bring a sleeping bag liner as per normal
Bring and use a face mask: It is mandatory to wear a face mask on public transport and gondolas/cable cars. Even if you don’t intend to use any transport on your tour, ensure you have a mask in case blister or injury force you to do so. Shops and supermarkets recommend that you wear a face mask in their stores. You’ll see locals using them and therefore as a courtesy to keeping them safe, ensure you do the same. Alpine clubs have recommended that huts require face masks to be worn in shared and confined spaces where the physical distance requirements can’t be maintained, however, it has not been
Socialise and overtake at a distance: Although hiking would seem like the perfect activity to do away from others, maintaining over 1m of physical distance when overtaking or passing those coming towards you isn’t easy to do in some narrow sections of trail. Do your best to pick your places to overtake and cross paths with others, even if it takes a little more patience then normal. Stopping for a social chat is also something to be conscious of. I’ve found that many hikers this year will greet you from a distance then turn away as you cross paths to prevent breathing in what you’re breathing out. Mountain passes or trail sections with lots of space are the best spots to engage in conversation, just be understanding that others may be more anxious than you about maintaining physical distance and not be their usual social self.
NEED A GPS MAP FOR YOUR Haute Route Hike?
Our Walker’s Haute Route mobile maps are the most up-to-date available. It comes with a wide range of useful features, including;
Shows your live location
Works offline
All the route revisions and detours after checking the entire trail (as at July 2020)
Contains water refill, food, ATM and toilet locations
Breaks your itinerary into sections and days
Contains distance, elevation change and time estimates for each section
Topographic lines allows you to visualise the terrain
Has the latest COVID-19 bus, train and gondola timetables for the entire route